Brassiere



June 19, 1934.

.1. NELSON 1,963,373

BRAssIfiRE Filed Sept. 18. 1935 2 Shets-Sheet 1 Jewel/Nelson INVENTOR ORNEY June 19, 1934.

J. NELSON 1,963,373

BRAssIraRE Filed Sept. 18, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Jewel/f Ne/sotz INVENTO R & I 1 1 v ATTORNEY Patented June 19, 1934 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE This invention relates to wearing apparel and it has particular reference to brassieres.

The principal object of the invention resides in the peculiar construction of the garment whereby is obtained breast receiving pockets adapted to support the breasts in a natural position and by virtue of the peculiar relationship of certain parts of the garment, a continuous reinforcement is had throughout in order that any strains to which the garment is subjected will be uniformly distributed, thus preventing the garment from becoming worn at any one point. Y

Another object of the invention is to insure proper body stiffness of the garment without necessitating the use of staves or the like which might interfere with the comfort of the wearer. The garment is constructed with the required stiffening medium which is instrumental in holding the garment to its original shape yet does not possess the annoying harshness of a reinforcing mediumof less flexibility.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a novel form of band which encircles the body of the wearer when the brassire is to be adapted for evening wear. The peculiar construction of this band is such that it may be secured in the back below the dress line so that it will be concealed when dcollet frocks are worn. The construction of the band also prevents it from working up to the discomfiture of the wearer and at all times insures a smooth and uniform appearance.

Still another object of the invention is to provide for simple adjustment in the breast receiving pockets of the garment by means of which the pockets may be increased or decreased in size to conform to the wearer without requiring any alteration in pattern. In cases where the breasts are unusually large or in cases where the wearer desires maximum confinement or support under the arms, this adjustment is very desirable andmay be simply and easily made.

With the foregoing objects as paramount, the invention has particular reference to its salient features of construction and arrangement of parts which will become manifest as the description proceeds, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, which:-

Figure 1 is a front view of the brassiere.

Figure 2 is a -fragmentary view of one type of band showing the method of construction where a narrow strip of material, such as a ribbon, is used to construct the band.

55 Figure 3 is a detail view of a portion of the but likewise presents a finished appearance.

pattern, specifically a strip of edging for one of the pockets of the garment.

Figure 4 is a detail view of a portion of the pattern for one side of one of the pockets of the garment.

Figure 5 is a detail view of the pattern for constructing the front of the garment.

Figure 6 is a view similar to Figure 2 but showing fragmentarily the preferred form of band for the dcollet garments.

Figure 7 is'a front view of the garment with the band extended.

Figure 8 is a fragmentary view of the reverse side of the garment shown in Figure 7.

Figure 9 is a front view of a modified form of garment showing a band designed to adapt the garment for street wear, and

Figure 10 is a back view showing the manner in which the garment illustrated in Figure 7 is secured.

Continuing with a more detailed description of the drawings, reference is primarily made to Figures 3 to 6 inclusive wherein 1 designates a pattern for constructing the front portion of the garment to define one half of each of the supportings pockets. It will be noted that the edges a of the portion 1 are cut in a circular fashion to be sewed along the edge b of the pattern 2. By thus sewing the contiguous edges a and b together, a cup or pocket is formed and it will be understood that two of the patterns such as shown in Figure 4 and identified at 2 are required, one being sewed to one side of the front pattern 1 while the other is similarly sewed in a reverse manner to the opposite side to complete the foundation of the garment.

After the assembly of the members 1 and 2 has been compl ted, a strip of edging 3 is secured along the upper edges of each of the pockets of the garment such as shown in Figures 1, 7 and 8. The edging 3 is of two thicknesses or specifically, the strip of material folded longitudinally to embrace the eges of the pocket. This edging. unlike the conventional type of brassiere, insures the wearer against binding or irritation caused by the unprotected edges pressing into the flesh, since this edging lies flat against the breast and not only protects the flesh as above mentioned To shape the edging 3 to conform with the circular edges of the pocket, a dart 4 is taken midway between the ends of the edging, as shown.

As a stiffening medium and affording a separator for the breasts, a plurality of rows ofstitches n 5- are provided vertically and in parallel relationship midway between the ends of the portions 1 of the pattern, as'shown in Figures 1 and 7. First ho ever, two or more darts 6 are taken horizon ally across the front of the portion 1 to further define the pockets.

As an aid to the manufacturer and to avoid the necessity for individual measurements and alterations, an adjustment feature is provided such as shown in Figures 7 and 8. This adjustment is made possible by leaving the lower edges of each of the pockets free near either end of the band '7 and by affixing a. reinforcing strip 10a along the free edges of the pocket. Buttons 11a are sewed to this reinforcing strip 10a in spaced relationship. Buttonholes 120. are provided in the band '7 to receive the buttons 11a. The purchaser receives the garment with the buttons afllxed as shown but if a slight adjustment in the size of the pockets is found to be necessary, it is a simple matter to remove the buttons and sew them on again at a point nearer or further from the lower free edge of the pockets. Those having abnormally large breasts may find a greater degree of comfort by making the slight adjustment referred to and by moving the buttons further from the edge, greater confinement of the breasts may be obtained.

The foregoing description clearly explains the construction and assembly of elements constituting the foundation of the garment which is sewed to a band of either the type shown in Figure 9 or of the type shown in Figure '7. A band of the type shown in Figure 9 is employed in the case of what is referred to as a street brassire while the band shown in Figure '7 is employed in the construction of a dcollet garment. The latter band identified by the character '7 is comprised of a single piece of material, whose ends are angularly cut at c and d and converge to a substantial point. Adjacent either end of the band 'I, a stiffening medium 8 is applied, comprised of buckram or any other similar material, suitably covered and in which is made a series of parallel rows of stitches e. The purpose of this reinforcing meduim insures against folding or creasing of the garment under the arms by natural movements of the body and permanently holds the shape of the garment, and prevents the back of the band from slipping up on account of strain imposed on the shoulder straps.

The band '7 is secured in the manner shown in Figure 10 by slightly overlapping the ends there of at a point below the dress line when a dcollet or backless dress is worn. The securing means may be hooks and eyes 9 or buttons, as desired.

Important among the features of the invention is the fact that continuous reinforcement is had from the band '7, through the shoulder straps 10 back to the band. It will be observed that the shoulder straps 10, instead of being secured to the top of the garment in the conventional manner, they are secured to the hand both in the front and back. This; is borne out in Figures 8 and 10. This fact however, does not distort the pockets as a result of strain imposed on the shoulder straps since this would result in too close confinement of the breasts. This strain is instead distributed along the edges and down the front-of the garment, leaving the breasts free of any binding action.

The modified form of garment shown in Figure 9 is constructed similarly to that just described although the pockets are composed of four pieces of material, the outer pieces 11 being similar to the piece 2 shown in Figure 4, the latter being modified 'only by cutting along the dotted line 12 to adapt the same for use in constructing a garment such as shown in Figure 9. The inner pieces 13 are overlapped as shown and the pockets are defined by sewing the pieces 11 and 13 along the contiguous edges f and by providing darts 14 in the pieces 13 immediately above the overlapped point.

The edging 15 is provided as in the structure previously described but this edging is substantially longer than the edging 3 since it is required to be overlapped at 16, as shown. By overlapping the pieces 13 and the edging 15, a more durable garment is provided for more vigorous wear such as in general use for street and business. In the latter instance, a straight band 1'7 is preferred over the band 7 previously described but it will be understood that the band 7 may be adapted for street garments as well as serving as a band for the dcollet garment designed for evening wear.

Manifestly, the construption shown is capable of some modification and such modification as is considered within the scope and meaning of the appended claims is also considered within the spirit and intent of the invention.

What is claimed is:

1. A brassiere including a central portion having a straight lower edge and a V-shaped top edge and provided with curved ends, substantially triangular end members, one side of each of said end members being curved in a reverse manner to the ends of said central member and sewed thereto along the contiguous edges to define pockets, a band secured along the straight lower edges of said members and whose extremities are angularly cut whereby to converge to a substantial point, means adjacent either end of said band for moderately reinforcing the same and means for securing the ends of said band in overlapped relationship.

2. A brassire including a central portion having curved ends and two end portions, each having one side curved and secured to the contiguous curved ends of said central portion to define pockets, a band secured to the lower edges of said portion and whose ends are cut into converging angles whereby the upper edge of said band will be substantially in alinement with the outer edges of said end members, shoulder straps having their forward ends secured to said band at the front and lying across the seams which connect the central with the end portions of said brassiere, said shoulder straps having their rearward ends connected to said band adjacent its end and means for securing the ends of said band in overlapped relationship.

3. A breast supporting garment including a central portion having a straight lower edge and 135 a V-shaped upper edge and provided with curved ends, end members of substantially triangular shape having circular edges arranged to be sewed to the curved ends of said central portion whereby to define pockets, said central portion having 140 darts therein below the point of its V-shaped upper edge, means for moderately reinforcing said central portion across said darts, a band secured along the lower edges of said central portion and end members, shoulder straps secured to said 5 band and passing through said pockets to overlie the seams therein and means for securing said band at its ends.

4. A breast supporting garment including a central member having curved ends and end 150 material, a band secured along the lower edge of said pockets, shoulder straps secured to said band and overlying the seams in said pockets whereby strain imposed upon said shoulder straps will be borne principally by said band and means for securing the ends of said bands in overlapped relationship. 7

JEWELL NELSON. 

